To the manor born

We left Suchitoto with Benjamin heading for Concepion de Ataca (known locally as Ataca).  We stopped for mid-morning beers overlooking Lago de Coatepeque with its stunning views of the wealthy homes strung around the Lake’s edge.

Earlier on our arrival in El Salvador, Benjamin had explained that the because of the earlier civil war, people felt comforted by the sight of heavily armed security guards.  He hoped that this was not a problem for us and reassured us that the country was safe.  This was underlined at the lake where an armed guard welcomed us into the empty bar, stood with an eye on the car (which was good as PR was in the boot), showed us across the road, and held up traffic for us whilst reversing out.

We drove along the Ruta de las Flores, made famous in the country because of the small white flowers on the thousands of coffee bushes that cover the surrounding hills. The small towns we passed through had all developed markets brimful of various crafts and foods, but unfortunately the weekends are the busy time.

On arrival in Ataca we stopped for the obligatory coffee at the originally named House of Coffee. Our guide book explained that this is the only place in a town of 2,000 with an espresso machine.  HJ felt like she was just arriving for work and her early morning trip to the Deli.  However this time, it was beautifully served in a glass jug with separate jug for the hot milk.

A far cry from the Deli

Our living room at Finca El Carmen

Home for our two nights was a working coffee plantation, Finca El Carmen.  The house is a traditional coffee farm house built over 100 years ago, with five double rooms and numerous other rooms stuffed to the gills with antiques and bric a brac.  We found out we were the only guests and so had the run of our own private mansion, not even a receptionist or night porter was in sight.  Any fears were banished by our nightly Buenos Noches to another gun toting, but smiling, gate-keeper.

Our evenings were spent in Ataca, a very sleepy town, which apparently comes alive at weekends. We spent Wednesday and Thursday nights here and were disappointed that the $3 margarita joint was shut.  So we had to make do with a pizza and bottle of unchilled chardonnay one night and pisco sours and a more traditional meal with chilled SB the next.  The town is well known for its colourful murals that adorn many of the buildings.

The side of a houes in Ataca

 

Benjamin and Rosa our guides in Imposible National Park

Our final day in El Salvador was spent hiking and bird watching in El Imposible National Park.  This was a two hour drive away, with the final hour on an unpaved road, which has saved lots of money in back massages. 

Next stop is Honduras and the Caribbean coastline.